Time a real session, log the charge you actually used, and get a genuine percent per hour drain rate plus a projected full charge runtime, built up into a history you can compare across sessions and across controllers.
No browser can read a controller's battery percentage directly, the Gamepad API simply has no battery property for any controller in any browser, so this tool does not pretend to pull a live number off your hardware. What it does instead is take two numbers you read yourself from your console or system's own battery display, a starting percentage and an ending percentage, paired with a precisely timed session length, and turn that into a real, calculated drain rate and a projected full charge runtime.
This is a genuinely useful and accurate calculation once you feed it real readings, since the maths itself, percent consumed divided by time elapsed, is exact. The only variable that depends on you is reading your two percentages accurately from wherever your platform displays them, which takes a few seconds before and after a session.
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Charge used is simply your starting percentage minus your ending percentage. Session length is the exact timed duration between pressing start and pressing stop, down to the second. Both numbers are only as accurate as the two readings you typed in, so reading your platform's battery display carefully at the right moments matters more than anything this calculator does internally.
This expresses consumption as percent per hour, calculated directly from your charge used and session length. It is the most useful single number for comparing sessions of different lengths fairly, since a long session naturally uses more total charge than a short one without that necessarily meaning anything about the battery's underlying health.
This takes your calculated drain rate and projects how long a full charge, 100 percent down to 0, would theoretically last at that same rate. Treat this as an estimate based on one session's conditions rather than a guarantee, since real runtime varies with how intensively you are using rumble, wireless range, and adaptive features, but a projection built from several sessions averaged together becomes a genuinely trustworthy figure over time.
Each saved session adds to a running list, and once you have two or more, an average drain rate across all of them is calculated automatically. This average is more trustworthy than any single session's number, since it smooths out the natural variation between a light single player session and an intense multiplayer one with constant rumble feedback.
A single battery percentage tells you almost nothing useful on its own, since 40 percent after a fifteen minute session is a completely different story to 40 percent after a four hour one. A calculated drain rate normalises that away entirely, giving you a number you can genuinely compare across sessions of any length, across different games with different rumble intensity, and most usefully, across the same controller's own history over time. A battery that is gradually losing capacity to normal chemical aging will show a drain rate that creeps upward over weeks and months even if no single session looks alarming in isolation, which is precisely the kind of slow trend a one off glance at a percentage will never reveal.
This is also the only practical way to compare two different controllers fairly, since pairing two separate running histories, one per controller, using the note field or simply running them as two separate tracked sets, lets you see directly whether one is genuinely draining faster than the other rather than relying on a vague impression from memory.
Read your starting percentage as close to the actual moment you begin play as possible, ideally checking it right as you press start here rather than relying on a number you glanced at ten minutes earlier. The same applies to your ending reading, check it the moment you stop playing rather than after sitting in a menu for a while afterward, since a controller can continue to draw a small amount of power even when not actively in use, which would quietly skew your numbers if too much idle time passes between actual play and your final reading.
For the most trustworthy long term average, try to log sessions that reflect your typical, normal play rather than only logging unusually short test runs, since a calculator fed a handful of genuinely representative sessions will give you a far more useful running average than one fed only convenient five minute checks.
Check whether that particular session involved unusually heavy rumble use, a weak wireless connection forcing the controller to work harder to maintain signal, or a long idle period between your actual ending reading and when you stopped playing. A single outlier session is normal and is exactly why the running average across several sessions matters more than any one result.
Use the enter a past session manually option, which lets you type in a session length directly alongside your two percentage readings, producing the same calculated rate without needing to have started the timer in real time.
This history is kept only for your current browser session and is not saved anywhere permanently. Use the copy history text button regularly if you want to keep a lasting personal record outside this page.
A projection from a single very short session, for instance just a few minutes, amplifies any small timing or reading inaccuracy into a much larger projected number. Longer sessions, and more of them averaged together, produce noticeably more reliable projections than short isolated ones.
If your calculated drain rate seems consistently off, you are not sure how to read your platform's battery percentage accurately, or you want a second opinion on a trend in your history, reach out directly. A short description of what you are seeing, along with your controller model and platform, is normally enough to help track down what is going on.
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