Press every button on your controller to confirm it registers cleanly. This tool counts each press, flags buttons that stay stuck, and tracks which ones you still need to test.
Checking for a controller…
No controller detected
Connect a controller by USB or Bluetooth, then press any button — most browsers won't notice it until you do.
Each card starts as Not tested yet. The first clean press flips it to OK and starts counting. A card flips to Stuck if the browser keeps reporting that button as held down for several seconds straight, which almost never happens from an intentional press.
Every full press-and-release cycle adds one to the count. A count that climbs by itself with nobody touching the controller points to a button firing on its own.
The small dot on each card lights up orange the instant that exact button is held down, separate from its longer-term status, so you can match a physical press to the right card before judging it.
"Reset test" clears the counts and statuses for the controller you're currently viewing, so you can run a clean pass after cleaning a button or before testing a different unit.
Plug in over USB, or pair over Bluetooth in your system settings first. Chrome, Edge, and Firefox all support the controller out of the box once it's paired.
Pair the controller in your device's Bluetooth settings, then open this page in Chrome. Other Android browsers vary in their support.
Pair an MFi or Bluetooth controller in Settings, then open this page in Safari. iOS has supported the same Gamepad API since version 14.5.
Plug in over USB or pair over Bluetooth, then use Chrome or Firefox. Some distros need a one-time udev rule for certain Bluetooth controllers to be recognised by the OS at all — if the controller isn't visible at the system level, it won't be visible here either.
This usually means contamination or a worn spring underneath that button. Power off and unplug the controller, then clear dust and debris from around the button with a short burst of compressed air. If it's still stuck afterward, the contact pad or dome underneath likely needs cleaning or replacing.
Check the live indicator dot while pressing — if it never lights up at all, the browser isn't seeing any signal from that button, which points to a broken trace, a torn membrane, or a disconnected switch rather than anything this page can fix from the outside.
That's usually called ghosting, and it's most often a contact quality issue. A light clean of the contacts can help; if it persists, the switch or membrane under the affected buttons may need replacing.
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